Today’s journey is going to take us to Maramureş, one of Romania’s most traditional regions. It is a very well-known area, in particular because of the wood culture and the many ethnic minorities that have been living here for centuries. The dense forests – the Carpathian Mountains used to be called the Forest Mountains – have been the source of livelihood for many generations. Each and every house and church used to be built out of wood, as woodcarving is still one of the most popular occupations in this area. Even today, many houses still have a wooden gate, a loom and a small bank, were people gather every evening to catch up with the latest gossip, play cards or weave.

After a couple of hours of driving from Cluj, we will reach Baia Mare, the capital of the region. It used to be one of the wealthiest cities in Romania, due to the many gold and iron mines in the region, which helped the city to develop. During the communist era it was massively industrialized. After leaving Baia Mare we reach our next destination of the day: the wooden church of Şurdeşti. For a long time this church was considered to be the religious building with the highest tower in the Maramureş. The interior of the church is of a rare simplicity and beauty: on the walls one can see many scenes from the Old and New Testaments, such as the life and works of the Prophet Elias and Judgment Day. Although the church is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, it is still used regularly by the local community, which has decorated it with several handmade carpets and towels.

Leaving Şurdeşti behind, we will cross the Gutin Pass and reach Sighetu Marmaţiei. This small city is one of the most cosmopolitan in all of Romania, with Romanian, Hungarian, Jewish, German, and Ukrainian communities living together for centuries. Prior to the Second World War, the largest community in Sighet was the Jewish one, with many synagogues, community houses, and cemeteries. Unfortunately, during the Holocaust the vast majority of them were destroyed and most of the Jewish community perished subsequent to its deportation to Auschwitz. The city is further home to one of the country’s most impressive museums: subsequent to the Second World War, the local prison was turned into one of the most notorious political prisons in Europe. Thousands of opponents of the communist regime suffered terrible traumas within its walls. Nowadays, this building has been turned into an eye-opening memorial dedicated to the resistance of that dark and brutal era. We will have a chance to discover this deeply saddening but important part of Romanian history.

Next on our list is one of the most interesting sights in the Maramureş: the Merry Cemetery of Săpânţa. An old tradition, dating back to over 2000 years ago, gives the locals the belief in life after death, and death is therefore seen as something normal, as a next step in life. This was the starting point of the cemetery over 70 years ago, when a local artist decided to paint amusing scenes on the cross of a deceased, something that would later on make this cemetery a truly unique place in the world. This tradition is still being kept alive today, as the cemetery is full of crosses telling funny, uncensored stories about boozers, lovers, and communist party members.

From Săpânţa we will return to Cluj, and if sufficient time remains, we will pay a short visit to the wooden church in Bogdan Vodă.